House training, house breaking, potty training or toilet training refers to teaching the dog when and where to go to the bathroom or to the designated toilet area. Everyone wants to have a dog around but nobody wants to clean the mess created by the pet especially if the accident happened on the carpet, on the bed or in other areas inside the house. The ease or the difficulty of house training the dog will basically depend on the persistence and on the methods used by the dog owner. The task of teaching the dog to eliminate in the designated area will basically depend on the training methods used and on the patience and persistence of the dog owner.

House breaking the puppy is not the responsibility of the breeder. As with any other kind of training, the task of housebreaking the pet would be easier if started while the dog is still a puppy. Dog owners will notice that these animals are creatures of habit.

Dogs that have soiled a particular area will return to the same place over and over again to defecate or urinate. It would be your responsibility to guide the dog so that the habit that will be formed is to relieve itself in the designated area. This task would be difficult for pet owners that are not at home most of the time. Don’t be disheartened as dogs being intelligent animals would adapt to the potty training in a very short time.

You need to designate an area to be the dog’s very own toilet. Suitable areas can be the garage, a corner of the bathroom or in the yard. Dogs have to do their business after waking up, after eating and before sleeping thus you can take the dog to the toilet area during these times to eliminate. A pat or a praise given after the dog has eliminated in the correct place will make the dog repeat the good deed again. Dogs that are allowed to roam inside the house can have accidents thus an owner need to know the telltale signs that the dog is about to do its business so that it can be taken to the designated place right away.

Dogs make wonderful companions but these animals are entirely dependent on their owners. Getting a dog for a pet entails a huge responsibility as aside from the food and the care that must be provided for the dog, various training will also be necessary to mold the dog into a wonderful individual that will be significant member of the family

Find out more about how to house train your dog as well as information on dog first aid at Sarah’s Dogs.

Scratching, digging, rolling in mud, barking and chewing are common dog behaviors. Dogs are one of the most loved pets. These loyal and loving animals have indeed made of lot of change to human lives. In spite of the dogs loyal and loving nature, an owner may think of abandoning the pet because of its unwanted behaviors. Destructive chewing is one of the most common concerns of pet parents. A pet owner that needs to replace the things destroyed by the dog would certainly be annoyed by the pet’s excessive chewing habit.

Chewing is a natural behavior of dogs. Three month old puppies are commonly seen starting to exercise the gums and teeth by chewing . Puppies, unlike humans, have no hands thus the mouth and the teeth are used to investigate their environment . Chewing things is the only way by which puppies satisfy their curiosity about their new world . Teething pains entices puppies to chew more. Babies are usually given teethers to ease teething pains and to strengthen the gums. Puppies that are not provided with chew toys would find their own teethers to manage their teething pains. This destructive chewing has other repercussions. A dog that has been chewing can swallow an object that can create a life threatening blockage. The chewing habit of puppies can be managed as it would be an easy matter to confine a small dog and provide it with harmless chew toys. The tendency to chew is generally outgrown by most puppies.

A well behave dog that has unexpectedly developed an excessive chewing habit would naturally concern a pet owner. There has to be an underlying reason for the dog’s destructive behavior. Boredom, loneliness, inactivity are the most common causes of destructive chewing. Once you know why your dog chews. You must also know what to do when it chews. A dog is a social animal. A dog is not similar to a cat that would be contented to stare into space alone all day. Being a social animal, a dog would need a member of its human family or another dog to play with. As you would expect, dogs would not know the value of things. A shoe with the master’s scent would be a poor substitute but it would do for a dog missing its master. Being energetic, dogs have to be provided with opportunities to let off steam. Dog owners must be aware that it would not be a good idea to confine the pet with no toys or playmate inside the house as with most certainty, the dog will develop into a destructive pet.

The act of chewing seems to be a matter of individual orientation among dogs: some have an innate desire to chew as a pleasurable activity in itself, and some seem to have no need to chew whatever unless they’re driven to it out of sheer boredom.

The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is likely going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focussed on your own possessions and household items, alternatively of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

The three main understandings why dogs chew:

– Most dogs have a instinctive desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

– Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

– Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

– How to forestall destructive chewing –

Dogs are perfectly able of learning not to chew your material – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

It is aslo possibly that your dog could be suffering from seperation Anxiety  read more here Anxiety Separation Dogs

1. Take control of the site: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-command – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to bite a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a run shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first spot, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means restricting her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her reason? of the house rules.

3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t work your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t perhaps expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can scarcely blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud racket: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals fuss.

– hold a generative attitude –

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a treasured item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to take her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Anxiety Separation Dogs. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.
You can visit the Anxiety Separation Dogs site by clicking on the link below:

Learn how to tap into your dog’s elementary den instincts, and make her more obedient—naturally.

Like their ancestors, dogs are born, nurse, and later eat solid foods in a good enclosed area (called a den in the wild), and therefore tend to accept being confined to a crate when necessary. Teaching your dog that her crate is a safe site, and helping her make happy associations with it, can help you and your home survive behavior problems such as housebreaking and adolescent chewing.

Having said that, a crate should only be used along with proper training, exercise, and socialization. With a few basic guidelines, you can use it as a valuable tool in a variety of situations.

Crate Expectations

Whatever the age of your dog, it’s important to present her to the crate gradually. Here’s how to make a good start.

* Put the crate in an area of your home wherever you or others will be around. You may want to keep the crate in the kitchen during the day and your bedroom at night. To make your dog’s first experiences with the crate as pleasant as imaginable, put a soft blanket or towel (preferable one that smell like you) on the floor of the crate. Then throw a toy and some foods treats inside.

* Do not use force to make your dog go into the crate. Instead, let her seek and find the goodies. When she enters the cage, praise her, and let   her come and go as she pleases. Play this game for several minutes. If your Boston Terrier takes to this game, close the door for a few seconds after she goes in. Increase the amount of time that the door is closed, but stay close to the crate while you offer praise and treats as this is one way of crate training Boston Terriers effectively.

* Now that you’ve familiarized her with the crate concept, gradually get her used to being in the cage for longer period of time. Start feeding your dog her meals in the crate with the door closed. Leave the room while your dog is eating and then when she is just resting. When your dog shows no opposition, leave the house: First, go out for only 5 minutes, gradually increase your time away to 30 minutes. If your dog can stay in the crate for half an hour without getting agitated, she should be comfortable for hours.
         
* Don’t overdo it. Try to use the crate for short times, both when you’re home and when you’re out. You shouldn’t confine your dog for more than 4 hours at a time and for no longer than a sum of 10 hours in any given day. Always give your Boston Terriers a special treat when you crate her. And remember, crated dogs need exercise and playtime too.

Adopting a new pet is one of the things that bring delight and squeals from children. It’s a happy occasion for both you and the family. Nonetheless, a pet, cute and squiggly as they are will, as all dogs do, mess the house. The new member of the household has to be potty trained as soon as the primary day.

It is important to observe that canines may hold their bladder up to 5 hours, not more than that. In reality, canine being territorial animals will mark the territory by urinating each few toes or so. When the dog is new to a specific place that has not but been marked by different canine, expect the canine itching to mark each nook and cranny of the house, worse, that embrace the rugs and carpets. The following will walk you through to potty prepare the pup.

As a result of you expect the pup to urinate you could possibly very effectively anticipate that it is bound to happen. Once you see a pup raising a hind leg, carry him outdoors to a delegated place the place the pup could relieve himself. Sometimes a pup that is good for adoption is about three months old. That additionally means that the puppy might maintain his bladder for a minimum of three hours. Refrain from waiting for that. Deliver the puppy out each two hours counting from the time when you first brought him outside. It is very important set up a routine and a schedule. Canine respond well to schedule and routine. Routines, repetitions, and schedules are the principle instruments used in training.

Use the identical space every time. When you find yourself trough enjoying with the puppy, go to the spot. When the pet has completed consuming, go to the spot. Each two hours after that, go to the identical spot. Eventually, the puppy will get the idea. All it takes is patience and the way ready you are because bringing residence a brand new canine to the home will take responsibility. The hardest half is just until the pet will get used to the routine. Till then, the whole lot hangs on your commitment to elevating a housebroken dog.

Likewise, feed the canine on a daily schedule. That means you could possibly predict and higher control the time when the puppy shall be relieving itself.

In the same method, younger puppies will need to relieve itself in the course of the night. A younger pet is generally considered less than 4 months old. In that case, do give water to the pet before bedtime. Puppies which can be four months or more make it overnight. When the pet wakes up, the primary urge is to urinate, deliver him to the spot. After a nap, do the same. Establishing routines and getting the puppy accustomed to the spot will make him go there ultimately without being led.

Even behind all these, accidents may happen. If the pup dirty a rug, a piece of paper or pieces of item, place the items in the spot. It would give the puppy the hint what the spot is for.

It’s also essential to praise the pet the very second after the pet has relived himself within the spot designated. That may reinforce the idea and go there each time.

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Housebreaking your new dog may seem like a daunting prospect, buy it’s usually pretty easy. No matter what age your dog is, the same principles apply: praise, supervision, confinement, and patience. Take your dog to his proper toilet area as often as possible, and praise him; supervise him at all times when he is in the house; and when you can’t supervise, confine him in some way. But above all, be patient.

Right from the beginning, whether your dog is old enough to control himself or not, the real training needs to begin. Here’s how to do it:

Rule out any medical problem first. Have him checked out by a veterinarian to make sure he’s fit. A “wormy” puppy with diarrhea can’t be expected to control himself.

Feed low-residue food. Give him two or three meals daily of a well-balanced, low-residue food (your vet can recommend a brand), rather than leaving the food out all day. Be consistent in his mealtimes to make the times of elimination more predictable. Try to make the last meal no later than 5 PM to help your dog make it through the night. Picking up his water at 8 PM may also be helpful as long as he doesn’t have a medical problem (such as kidney disease) that would make water restriction dangerous.

Select one area as his toilet. Take your dog to an area of the yard you’ve pre-selected as his toilet zone. Show him where it is (don’t expect him to find it on his own) at the times he is expected to need to eliminate: immediately upon awakening, soon after eating, and at exciting times (after meeting new people, after a car ride, before and after play). When you’re puppy gives you that “uncomfortable” look, take him to the toilet area immediately. A puppy usually needs to be taken tom his area approximately every 2 to 4 hours. An older Boston terrier dog may only need to be taken every 4 to 6 hours.

Teach a cue word. When you get to the area and your pup begins to search for the right spot, say to him “Hurry up,” “Do your business,” or any other creative phrase. That phrase will soon act as a cue to spend him up.

Always praise and play afterward-not before. Pay your pup lots of compliments immediately after he eliminates in the right area. Then play with him in another spot outside. If your pet doesn’t do his business in his area after about 5 minutes, bring him back into the house and either tie or confine him for another 5 minutes. Then take him out to the toilet area again. The second time around is usually successful.

Supervise your dog in the house at all times. Always keep your dog with you. If you’re too busy to watch him, put him in his pen or confined area. Keep him in his pen (with papers when he needs them and without papers when he gets older) or confined area when you are not home.

Never use punishment after the fact. Even if you’re doing everything in your power to prevent accidents, they do happen. If you catch your puppy in the act, clap your hands to startle him, and say “No!” Take him outside to finish immediately. If he does, praise him for doing a good job. If you find an accident, do not raise your voice, spank your pup, or rub his nose in it. You won’t make him afraid of having accidents, but you will make him afraid of you.

Learn from hi mistakes. Keep good records of accidents. Use these records to predict when your pup needs to eliminate so that you can alter your schedule to prevent the next one.

Neutralize the odor. When cleaning up accidents, use products that neutralize urine odor. Avoid products with ammonia, as these may genuinely attract young pets like Boston Terrier puppies to urinate in the same location.

Be patient and positive. This last tip is the most important. It’s possible to housebreak just about any dog like a Boston Terrier, though it may have to be done at his pace.